Inca trail - 23rd April 2009
One of the most obvious highlights of Peru is Machu Picchu, and the Inca Trail. Hiking has never really been my cup of tea, but after hearing some of the tails of adventure from those that have completed this trek I couldn't say no to the opportunity, and how glad I am that I didn't.
The route we took was a full 3 day trek leaving Ollytantambo, with 3 nights camping along the way before finally arriving at Machu Picchu for sunrise on day 4.
We left Ollytantambo bright and early, and after giving the bulk of what we would need to our Peruvian porters to carry, we set off from kilometer 88, at the Urubamba River.
Everyone seemed a little apprehensive about the task ahead, but clearly very excited as well. Spirits were high.
We were briefed that day 1 would be relatively flat and an easy walk, and by lunch, so far so good. There were 14 of us tourists in our group and we basically had an additional team of 16 porters who carry all the gear: all the tents, cooking equipment, food for the 30 of us for 3 days, plus most of our gear that we didn't need during the day.
To say the very least, these guys are amazing. They carry such huge amounts, yet they speed ahead, often running, to get to the next point before we all arrive, so that they can prepare the excellent lunches/dinners, or setup the camp.
After a good few hours at a consistent pace a lunch stop seemed like a well deserved reward but none of us realised quite how good these lunches would be. Absolutely fantastic. Well played porters!!
The rest of the day was a similar sort of challenge, and a rather scenic walk. We passed through a the last village communities that we would see for a few days. For these communities life is simple: A full days walk to the next nearest town for them, their life on the mountains here is primarily fuelled by what they produce themselves. We camped in the highest of these villages, Wayllabamba, and in a beautiful spot with mountains all around us and the brightest star lit sky I can ever remember seeing. So far, so good.
Day 2 began with a bit of brief of how today will probably be a little more challenging than the previous day. In fact they made it sound quite tough!! And with good reason.
Things started well with a casual walk through more amazing scenery, but things soon developed in a tiresome climbing slog up the biggest, oldest, and possibly ugliest set of steps I've ever seen. And that lasted for about 5 more hours. The paths were uneven, irregularly spaced, and in places, extremely steep, passing through all sorts of terrain including rain forests.
It is difficult at this point to walk with your head up as you have to be careful of your footing at every step. But to stop and admire the surrounding views was simply breathtaking (although not as breathtaking as starting walking again!!).
And then to consider the history behind the construction of these paths makes you realise what incredible accomplishments of construction the Incas pulled off approximately 600 years ago. It also made me think they were not quite right in the head, as this was just crazy!
These meandering paths of Inca history took us to 4215 meters above sea level, as we made the pass over the highest point at Dead Womans Pass, which supposedly, from a distance, resembles exactly that but I couldn't spot it. This height was a new personal record, making the walk that bit more difficult with a obvious lack of oxygen.
The trail then descends steeply into the valley where our 2nd campsite waited for us in Pacaymayu, 600 meters below the peak. Our arrival was greeted by a round of applause from the porters who had at some point during the day run past us, up to the peak, and down into the valley, got to the campsite set up all of the tents and prepared a pretty damn good lunch!! Well played again, fellas.
Everyone was quite exhausted but relieved and thrilled to have got past what we knew to be the toughest leg of the journey. Machu Picchu felt distinctly closer at the end of day 2.
Day 3 begins with a climb up to the next mountain pass, at 3950m, passing Runkraqay, a small Incan ruin overlooking the valley we had just camped in. This site has been heavily restored as have many of the sites we walked through on Day 3.
Once over the peak the path descends steeply into the next valley where we come across the largest of the Inca civilisations that we've seen so far, Sayaqmarka. This has been built on an incredibly steep part of the mountain side, and the translation of the name, “Inaccesible town”, seems rather appropriate. The site is spectacular though, and offers a great vantage point to see next part of the trail and the surrounding mountains.
The third day of the trek is the most beautiful. The trail itself winds through more rainforests, through rock tunnels, thick vegetation, up and down irregular staircases, while pretty much the whole time offering stunning views all around.
The last part is another winding descent of uneven steps towards our campsite at Winay Wayna, where we know there are cold beers waiting for us, inspiring us to do this last leg at a pace which would give the porters a challenge. Or possibly not.
Either way it was great to reach the conclusion of this stage as well, and enjoy another top quality meal, this time accompanied by a few beers. Not a late night though, as the following morning we would be getting up at 4 am to begin the final leg of the Inca trail taking us upwards to Machu Picchu.
