This morning's trip to Essaouira began with a 3 hour wait for my bus. I wasn't too put out as I'm reading Richard Dawkins' 'God Delusion' which is doing a good job of distracting me from this wretched city. More slating later in this entry.

Two and a half hours later I arrived at the seaside town of Essaouira on the West coast of Morocco. As I so often do in new towns, I put my map into my back pocket and went for a random wander; on this occasion I got myself lost in the Jewish quarter, or the 'Mellah'. My experiences of Moroccan towns so far s... [read more]

After a few problems with the previously established ferry discounts, we were away on the 11am Tarifa to Tangier speed-ferry. Africa here we come.

It was a fairly clear day, and throughout the journey it was possible to see both land masses either side of the 9 miles that separate Europe and Africa. From a coastline I know quite well, with the grassy hills of San Roque forming the backdrop behind the distinct shape of the rock of Gibraltar, to a complete unknown for me, in the shape of the gateway to Africa, Tangier.

We had heard of previous groups having probl... [read more]

Kampala – 22/09
The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it
Meet the group at Red Chilli’s Campsite and Hostel. Pre-departure meeting under shade of trees. No sign of Denford. Maggie replaces Oscar after he blew his head. Kim finds snake in clothes. Sample local African cuisine of pizza takeaway & Indian. Local bar for drinks. Beer and pool. Circus tent dorms. Sleep with the chorus of Kampala dogs.

Queen Elizabeth National Park – 23/09
Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey
Leav... [read more]